Gas Pack (Packaged Air Conditioner & Furnace) Buying Guide – Heating and Cooling System in Attic

8 thoughts on “Gas Pack (Packaged Air Conditioner & Furnace) Buying Guide – Heating and Cooling System in Attic”

1. I am just curious, as we already purchased our residential package unit and had it installed. I just wanted to check if we got a good deal. We won’t take it out, but, as I mentioned I am curious. Seemed like a good deal at the time.

   We got a RP14GE Series Unit. I believe it is from Concord Air. I looked up the information and it does appear to be the one we got. The technician did not leave much information, other than the Installation and Maintenance Instructions. I will be requesting more documentation from the company that installed it, primarily information on the warranty. To that end, what should they have left us. We have a sheet that showed his initial assessment and the contract. We paid $6080, complete. That was for the unit, installation, crane service, taxes/fees, and the cost of the permits.

   Another question I have is, one of the intake registers was damaged with debris blockage. Someone dumped what looks like a bucket of construction debris down the duct. We actually pulled a single knee pad off the debris. There are only two registers (inline) providing return air. The lower one is totally blocked and no air is being drawn. The second vent appears to be pulling all the return air. The way the two registers were connected like this: A solid duct comes down from the ac/heater unit, the higher intake vent is part of the solid duct. As the duct continues down, there was a flexible duct attached so it could make a bend to the lower vent. When the debris was dumped down the duct, it tore out the flex duct. The damaged flex duct and debris is totally blocking any air from coming from the lower vent. The installing technician said this isn’t a bad thing in a way because the AC unit is now drawing air “from all areas”. I think he meant that with the tear in the flex ducting, air is being drawn, basically, the area around the break. I don’t know if that is true, but there it is.

   This break and the drawing of all the air that was not being filtered apparently lead to the demise of the old unit. We had that unit installed in 2010. For the record, I probably only checked the filter a few times since the unit was installed, but cannot remember the last time I did. So, I take responsibility for that.

   This was the diagnosis from the tech: “Found unit running, cap(45×5) was at 44×4.7. Compressor making loud, clicking noises and refrigerant suction pressure less than 20psi. System shows signs of failure (unreadable) and leak – Recommend replace, but we can also add 410A, but no guarantee.”

   Here is what we got: 3 ton 240/208 single-phase, Allied Gas Package unit. Remove existing and connect new unit to existing ducting. Properly startup and test unit. 10-year warranty on labor, parts, compressor. Add permits and (unreadable). Test – add $650.00.”

   His estimate came to $5430.00 for unit, installation and all taxes.

   We live in Carlsbad, Ca., so we don’t have the extreme weather as seen in other parts of the country. Still, this year has been quite warm (for California). I will say, the technician and his assistant did come out on what so far, was the hottest day of the year to do the installation.

   It’s just that he only left us the Proposal, a Ticket (#050718), and the User’s Information Manual and the Installation and Maintenance Instructions. The Allied Air Enterprises Equipment Limited Warranty was blank.

   He did say he would be coming back to test the heating part of the system as soon as it cools down a little.

   Here is the performance of the unit so far. Our condo is 3 stories. Our Nest controller is on the 3rd floor. We set the Nest to 76 degrees. The unit turns on and does blow cold air. The unit has been running continually for almost the past two days since the installation. My wife came up and turned it off because on the bottom floor it was very cold and on the second floor it was quite cold. The 3rd floor is struggling to get to 76 (or so it seems). I understand that the composition of the room is important. The home was built in the 80s, the third floor has an open floorplan with a large living room with single pane windows and a french door leading to a small patio. So, not very energy proficient. The overall square footage is about 2300 sq. ft.

   So, now you know almost everything I know. Did we get a good deal?

   Reply

   • Manuel,

     I am one of the three journeyman level HVAC/R technicians for a relatively large school district, we have over 4,000 a/c units and 60 walk-in refrigeration/freezer units.
     Prior to this, I worked as a union journeyman tech for a large commercial HVAC/r installation and service company.

     Now to the point, ‘what about your system’. That 3 ton unit is too small for your home, especially since it is multi-level. At 2,300 sqft., the minimum size should have been a 4 ton system. At only 3 tons, 36,000 BTUs, on a warm/hot day, your system will run constantly and never satisfy.
     Was money a concern, because if it was not, installing a 3 ton system in a 2300 sqft. home is ludicrous.
     You get what you paid for and this install is questionable.

     By the way, it was 101 degrees F today and my partner and I installed and had running, two 5 ton units at separate locations, where both installations required a crane. We had them installed and running in less than 8 hours and that included unhitching the trailer in our yard and unloading the old units with a forklift. I’m 62 years old by the way and my partner is 59 years old.

     Reply

2. Great article – accurate, helpful information, and all in one place.

   I got a Trane 3-ton 16 SEER XL series (2-stage heat/2-stage cool) for $7,500 installed.

   It runs quiet, and I should gain some efficiency, over the 13-year-old Bryant.

   We shall see how it turns out.

   Thanks again.

   Reply

3. I have a 1800 square ft single story house located in northern Alabama. It currently has a heat pump with electric backup for extreme cold. It’s a 3.5 ton unit complete unit in one. I am looking to change it out as it is 20 years old and want to go with a more efficient model. I already have a propane tank set up for emergency heat. Would you install another heat pump and add on propane backupinstead of electric strip heaters? Do you have a preference on a good brand. What SEER rating should I go with? Thanks Wade

   Reply

   • Hi, Wade,

     Sounds like you’re replacing your heat pump before it fails in the dead of winter. That’s a great idea that few homeowners have the foresight to do.

     As for propane backup, the equipment might cost more, but propane is always cheaper to heat with than electricity, so go for it.

     As for brand, so many of the heat pump brands are made by the same parent companies or have the same parts. For example, Carrier, Bryant, Heil, Day & Night, Comfortmaker and a few others are almost identical — all UTC brands. Ditto Rheem/Ruud and Trane/American Standard.

     What’s more important in my pro opinion is who installs the unit. I’d recommend using the Free Quotes service here. The installers are first class and they’ve already been screened for the essentials like experience and license/certification. Get a few estimates and learn about the people that will do the actual installation. Then you’ll have a good idea about which to choose. Cost isn’t everything. Experience is critical.

     Reply

4. I have an 800 sq. ft single level cottage that had a 2.5 ton Trane dual fuel heat pump package unit installed in 1992. The computer control for the heating part of the unit died about ten years ago, and a replacement board was going to be over $600. We did not replace the board and have used the unit for AC only ever since. We have been able to heat comfortably with electric infra red space heaters, and the winter electric bills were over $ 200 per month.

   I have just ordered a propane gas pack from Carrier and am wondering if the winter propane costs should have made me choose another dual fuel heat pump package instead of a gas pack. The Carrier dual fuel heat pump package is about 50% higher than the gas pack.

   I have gotten two estimates–Carrier and Rheem, and the prices are almost identical. Both HVAC companies are local and have been in business for decades.

   Reply

5. Hello,

   Need your expert advice…My name is Lou, I live in Phoenix AZ. I have a 1369 SqFt home with plans to enclose the carport that will add an additional 400 SqFt…Initially, I had a 3.5 Bryant A/C-Gas Pack on my roof that was over 20yrs old. I had shopped and compared many companies. Keeping apples to apples I was looking for a 4T 16 Seer dual-stage A/C-Gas Pack unit. Found a Co. that quoted me $8755.00 installed. Well below other quotes from 10k to 13k. All was fine and dandy till I discovered that they installed a 4T 16 Seer dual-stage w/Heat Pump.

   I was told because of my climate that the heat pump is the wiser way to go (only 3 months of winter) and the savings for gas is minimal.
   A) Is it true that Heat Pump is wiser than Gas Pack in my climate, or is it their way to explain their mess-up?
   B) Is an A/C w/Gas Pack unit more expensive than an A/C w/Heat Pump unit?
   C) Is $8755.00 a good price for a Trane XL 16c – 4T 16 Seer Dual-Stage w/Heat Pump?

   I appreciate your expert opinion!

   Reply

   • Hi Lou,

     Heat pump is usually a better option for AZ. What’s the lowest temperature in winter for your location?

     Reply