Where Is My Heat Pump Located? How to Find Every Part in Your Home

Not sure where your heat pump is located or what to look for? This guide explains where each component lives in American homes and multifamily buildings, how to tell a heat pump from a standard AC, and what clues point to its exact location. Use the step‑by‑step checklist, photos-to-look-for tips, and quick-reference tables to find your system fast and keep it accessible for service.

What A Heat Pump Looks Like: Quick Identification

A heat pump is a refrigeration system that can both cool and heat. Most modern residential systems are air-source heat pumps with an outdoor unit and an indoor unit connected by refrigerant lines.

• Outdoor unit (air-source): A louvered metal cabinet with a fan on top or side, labels from brands like Trane, Carrier, Lennox, Rheem, Goodman, Daikin, or Mitsubishi, and a nearby electrical disconnect box.
• Indoor unit (ducted): A metal air handler or furnace-style cabinet connected to ductwork, a condensate drain, and a filter panel.
• Ductless mini-split: One outdoor unit plus one or more indoor wall cassettes, ceiling cassettes, or slim ducted units.
• Packaged heat pump: One large outdoor cabinet containing all components, with big supply/return ducts connected outside or on a roof.
• Geothermal (ground-source): Indoor cabinet with water pipes to a buried loop; no traditional outdoor condenser.

Key clue: If the outdoor unit runs in winter heat mode, it is almost certainly a heat pump, not a cooling-only AC.

Common Locations Of Heat Pump Components

Outdoor Unit (Air-Source Heat Pump)

In detached U.S. homes, the outdoor unit is usually on a small concrete or composite pad along the side or back of the house. It may also be wall-mounted on brackets, placed on a stand, or located on a flat roof in some cases.

• Side or back yard: Look near the electric meter or where refrigerant lines enter the wall in a plastic or metal line-set cover.
• Raised stand or wall brackets: In snowy climates, units are lifted above typical snow levels to keep airflow clear.
• Rooftop: Common on townhomes and multifamily buildings. Roof access may be needed.
• Balcony or mechanical alcove: In condos, the unit may sit on a balcony or in a screened mechanical nook.
• Coastal areas: Units may be on corrosion-resistant stands and away from direct salt spray.

What to spot: Brand/model label, fan grille, refrigerant lines (insulated copper), a service disconnect switch, and a condensate drip or defrost runoff area.

Indoor Air Handler Or Furnace-Style Cabinet

The indoor component circulates air through ducts. It may contain electric heat strips for auxiliary heat or pair with a gas furnace in dual-fuel setups.

• Attic: Often above a hallway or garage. Look for a service platform, light, and condensate drain line exiting the eaves.
• Basement: Near the water heater or electrical panel, with duct trunks overhead.
• Crawl space: On a pad or hung between joists; access via a crawl hatch.
• Utility or laundry closet: In homes without attics/basements, behind louvered doors for airflow.
• Garage: Against an interior wall with return/supply ducts.

What to spot: A filter slot or grille, a condensate drain line or pump, supply/return ducts, and the incoming line set (insulated copper tubes). The cabinet label often states “Heat Pump.”

Ductless Mini‑Split Indoor Units

Mini-splits place small air handlers directly in rooms. Multiple zones may connect to one outdoor unit.

• Wall cassettes: High on interior or exterior walls, typically 7–8 feet above the floor.
• Ceiling cassettes: Flush with the ceiling grid or drywall, often in living areas or bedrooms.
• Floor consoles or slim-duct units: Near baseboards or hidden in soffits with short ducts to nearby rooms.

What to spot: A sleek indoor head with status LEDs, a remote control, a small condensate line, and a line-set cover running outdoors.

Packaged Heat Pumps

A packaged heat pump houses the compressor, coils, and blower in one outdoor cabinet. Ducts run directly to the unit.

• Manufactured/mobile homes: Often next to the home with large insulated duct connections.
• Townhomes/light commercial: Frequently on roofs behind a screen or parapet.

What to spot: One large cabinet with both supply and return ducts outdoors, a large access panel, and a disconnect nearby.

Geothermal (Ground-Source) Heat Pumps

Ground-source systems move heat to and from earth loops. The main unit sits indoors; the loop field is outside or under the building.

• Indoor cabinet: In a basement, utility room, or closet near the water heater. Two or more heavy insulated water pipes connect to the ground loop manifold.
• Loop field: Piping buried in trenches (horizontal), vertical boreholes (often under a driveway/yard), or submerged in a pond.

What to spot: Flush ports and valves on the loop piping, a circulation pump, and an air handler or hydronic connections.

Water‑Source Heat Pumps In Apartments/Condos

Many mid- and high-rise buildings use a central water loop. Each unit has a compact water-source heat pump.

• Closet or ceiling plenum: Behind a grille or access panel, often near the entry or in a hallway.
• What to spot: Two water pipes with shutoff valves, a condensate drain pan, and a filter access door.

Heat Pump Water Heaters Vs. Space‑Heating Heat Pumps

Do not confuse a heat pump water heater (HPWH) with a space-heating heat pump. An HPWH looks like a tall water heater with a fan at the top and is usually in a garage, basement, or utility room.

Tip: If the “heat pump” is a tank with hot/cold water lines, it is likely a heat pump water heater, not your home’s space-heating system.

Step‑By‑Step: How To Find Your Heat Pump

1. Start at the thermostat: If it has “Heat,” “Cool,” and “Em Heat/Aux,” it likely controls a heat pump. In heating season, set to Heat and listen outside for a running fan.
2. Walk the home perimeter: Look for a louvered outdoor unit on a pad, a line-set cover entering the wall, and a disconnect box.
3. Trace the line set: From the outdoor unit, follow the insulated copper lines to where they enter the home; the indoor unit will be nearby on the other side or connected by ducts.
4. Check common indoor spots: Attic, basement, crawl space, garage, or a louvered utility closet. Listen for a blower and look for a filter slot.
5. Look up on roofs/balconies: In townhomes and condos, check rooftop equipment or balconies and mechanical nooks.
6. Find room units: For mini-splits, locate wall or ceiling cassettes in living rooms, bedrooms, and offices.
7. Verify labels: Open the small panel on the outdoor unit (no tools) or read the nameplate for “Heat Pump,” “HP,” or model numbers ending in “HP.”
8. Check documentation: Home inspection report, installer stickers on the unit, or a service tag near the electrical panel often list locations.

How To Tell A Heat Pump From A Traditional AC

• Outdoor unit runs in winter: If the outdoor fan operates while heating, it is a heat pump.
• Thermostat “Em Heat/Aux” mode: Heat pump systems often show Emergency Heat or Auxiliary Heat options.
• Labeling: The outdoor or indoor unit may explicitly state “Heat Pump.” Model numbers often include “HP” or “H.”
• Reversing valve: A visible brass/copper valve assembly inside the outdoor unit (through grille openings) is a heat-pump-only feature.
• Steam clouds on cold days: Brief plumes of steam during defrost cycles are normal for heat pumps.

Pro tip: If unsure, search the model number on the manufacturer’s site or scan the QR code on the nameplate if present.

Location Rules, Clearances, And Code Considerations

Manufacturers specify clearances to ensure airflow and service access. Local codes and HOA rules may add requirements. Always verify your specific model’s manual and community guidelines.

• Side/Rear clearance: Commonly 12–24 inches from walls, shrubs, and fences. Keep 60 inches or more above the unit clear.
• Service access: Leave clear space in front of access panels. Avoid tight enclosures that trap heat or restrict airflow.
• Snow and roof runoff: In snowy regions, elevate units above typical snow depth and keep them away from roof avalanches and downspouts.
• Noise placement: Place away from bedroom windows when possible; use vibration pads or stands where required.
• Electrical disconnect: A shutoff within sight of the outdoor unit is typically required; the breaker should be labeled in the panel.
• Condensate management: Indoor air handlers must drain properly to a safe location; many codes require a secondary drain pan or float switch in attics.
• Attic/crawl access: Provide a service platform, lighting, and a clear path to the unit for maintenance.
• Wind and coastal conditions: Tie-downs or hurricane-rated stands may be required in some regions; corrosion-resistant hardware is recommended near salt air.

Important: Minimum distances can vary by manufacturer, local code, gas/electrical utility rules, and HOA covenants. Always follow the most restrictive requirement that applies.

Apartment, Townhome, And Mobile Home Scenarios

Heat pump locations vary widely outside detached single-family homes. These patterns can narrow your search.

• Apartments/condos (mid/high-rise): Water-source heat pumps are often inside a hallway closet or above a bathroom/entry ceiling behind an access panel. Outdoor condensers are uncommon.
• Garden-style condos: Outdoor condensers may sit on ground-level pads near patios; indoor air handlers are in utility closets or small mechanical rooms.
• Townhomes: Outdoor units often sit on the roof or in rear patios; air handlers may be in attics over the second floor.
• Manufactured/mobile homes: Packaged units may sit outside on a pad with ducts entering under the home; some have split systems with an outdoor unit and an indoor closet air handler.

HOA note: Some communities limit where equipment can be placed or screened. Check governing documents before moving or enclosing equipment.

If You Still Cannot Find It

• Check the inspection report: Real estate and inspection documents usually list make/model and location.
• Look for installer stickers: Many contractors place service decals on the electrical panel door, water heater, or inside a closet with their contact info and system location.
• Review permits: City or county permit portals often include equipment descriptions and sometimes photos.
• Open return grilles: Large louvered return grilles may hide the filter and indicate where ducts lead.
• Smart thermostat apps: Some record equipment type (heat pump vs. conventional) and installer notes.
• Call the utility or prior installer: Rebate or maintenance records can confirm system type and locations.

Maintenance Touchpoints Once You Find It

Knowing where your heat pump lives helps keep it efficient and reliable. These location-aware tasks prevent many service calls.

• Filter changes: Replace or clean filters every 1–3 months. For mini-splits, wash the washable screens on each indoor head.
• Outdoor clearance: Keep 2–3 feet clear around the unit. Trim shrubs, remove leaves, and keep snow away from coil surfaces.
• Drainage: Ensure the condensate line drips freely outside or to a drain. In attics, check the secondary pan and float switch.
• Coil care: Gently rinse outdoor coils with a garden hose from inside out when power is off. Avoid pressure washers.
• Line-set insulation: Replace cracked UV-damaged insulation sleeves to maintain efficiency.
• Roof units: Verify secure mounting, clear roof drains, and safe access before any service.

Safety: Turn off power at the disconnect and breaker before opening any panels or handling wiring. If unsure, hire a licensed HVAC technician.

Troubleshooting Location‑Related Issues

• Excessive noise near bedrooms: Add vibration pads, relocate if allowed, or install acoustic fencing that maintains airflow clearances.
• Frequent icing in winter: Units in wind tunnels or under roof drip lines may ice up. Add wind baffles per manufacturer guidance and redirect downspouts.
• Short cycling from heat sources: Direct sun or dryer vents can raise intake air temperature. Provide shade without blocking airflow and redirect nearby exhausts.
• Condensate leaks in attics: Ensure trap and slope are correct. Clean lines annually and verify the float switch operation.
• Animal nesting/debris: Install a simple coil guard or screen kit approved by the manufacturer; do not restrict airflow.
• Corrosion near coasts: Rinse coils with fresh water periodically and consider coastal-treated equipment.

Glossary: Components You Might See

Quick Reference: Likely Locations By Home Type

Frequently Asked Questions About Heat Pump Locations

Is a heat pump always outside? Air-source systems always have an outdoor unit; packaged units are fully outside; geothermal systems have no outdoor condenser but have buried loops.

Can my heat pump be on the roof? Yes. Many townhomes and multifamily buildings place condensers or packaged units on flat roofs for noise and space reasons.

How far from the house should the outdoor unit be? Typically a foot or two away to allow airflow and service, but follow the manufacturer’s clearance chart and local codes.

Can an air handler be in the attic? Yes, but it requires proper access, a drain pan, and a float switch to prevent water damage.

Where is my filter? In a slot on the air handler or behind a large return grille. Mini‑splits have washable screens behind the front panel of each indoor head.

Why does steam rise from my unit in winter? That is the defrost cycle. It is normal for heat pumps to create visible vapor as frost melts off the outdoor coil.

Is a closet door supposed to be louvered? Many indoor units need return air through a louvered door or grille. Solid doors may require dedicated return ducts.

Safety And Access Best Practices

• Stable pad and level unit: Ensures proper oil return and operation.
• Clear path: Keep at least a couple of feet of unobstructed access for service technicians.
• Secure electricals: The disconnect should be within sight, weatherproof, and firmly mounted.
• Drain protection: Test float switches annually and keep drains clear to prevent overflows.
• Rodent and insect control: Seal line-set wall penetrations with appropriate materials to deter pests.

When It Is Not A Heat Pump

Sometimes equipment nearby can be mistaken for a heat pump. These clues help avoid confusion.

• Standard AC condenser: Looks similar, but will not run in heating mode; thermostat usually lacks “Em Heat.”
• Heat pump water heater: A tall tank with a fan at the top located in a garage or basement; heats domestic water, not the home’s air.
• ERV/HRV box: Slim wall or attic unit with small ducts for ventilation, not heating/cooling.
• Pool heat pump: Outdoor unit near the pool equipment pad; connected to pool plumbing.

Resources For Deeper Reference

• U.S. Department of Energy: Heat Pump Systems
• ENERGY STAR: Heat Pumps
• ACCA Quality Installation Guidelines

What “Where Is My Heat Pump Located” Means For Homeowners

Knowing where the outdoor and indoor components are located improves maintenance, makes troubleshooting easier, and helps plan upgrades. It also ensures compliance with clearances, HOA rules, and service accessibility, all of which affect performance and lifespan.

Bottom line: Start at the thermostat, walk the perimeter for the outdoor unit, trace line sets to the indoor air handler, and check typical locations by home type. If the equipment still cannot be found, inspection records, permits, or a licensed HVAC technician can pinpoint it quickly.